Friday, April 5, 2013

Easter + Urban Ninja = broken leg

So, many of you already know the story, but for those who don't, this past weekend I broke my leg in Uppsala.  I was visiting Stockholm and Uppsala over Easter weekend because I wanted to get out of the village for a while.  I've been to both places quite a bit now and am checking museum after museum off my list.  Some Id recommend and others....well, unless you are REALLY into the subject, you should totally avoid.

Me and Mari-Caroline (french) and Melanie (German) heading to the big city on Thursday after work.  I had just traveled the weekend before to Stockholm to visit the Tax rep person (who was a total ass and complete waste of my time), so I felt very confident and was kinda familiar with "central" Stockholm.  But, the girls and I actually caught a ride to Uppsala and then we took the train down to Stockholm.  Now, if you are under the age of 26 OR have proof that you are a student (Thank you U of A for not putting an expiration date on student ID cards) then you can get tickets in Sweden for the same price as Old people.  Even cheaper if you are under 12. I didn't know this until after 2 train ticket purchases dang it!  The train from Uppsala to Stockholm is ~45 min.  During this car/train ride I come to find out that Caroline or MC (pronounced "em-ka") REALLY REALLY REALLY likes Burger King.  She had never had it before 2 weeks ago and was now obsessed.  I had not eaten anything since lunch and we didn't get into Stockholm till 7ish.  Over the entire weekend I think we ate Burger King 4 times however, it seemed like we were eating it for every meal.  Sad to say, that if you want "cheap" food then the ONLY option is fast food or sandwhiches at cafes.  It is actually a toss up if you make a meal for yourself at a hostel vs. eating at fast food place as to what would be more expensive.  At least your home made meal would be healthy and you could potentially save some for later.  The girls had picked out a hostel that they felt was very cheap and clean.  Which it was clean(ish) and cheap I guess (I elected not to care cuz I didn't want to take the time to find something else). it was however, totally PACKED.  It was a 10 minute walk from the station and holy crap was it full with LOADS of beds...so, there really wasn't a lot of free space to eat and always a line in the bathrooms.

But before getting to the hostel, I was at a very very very low blood sugar level and needed food.  Unfortunately for MC we didn't get to BK as Max the Swedish version of McDonalds/Burger King came first on our walk to the hostel.  15kr for a Jr. Burger isn't too bad...except that the burger is about the size of a coffee mug in diameter and its just bun meat bun.  So, a $2.40 burger and a 35kr ($5.40) small milkshake was what I had for dinner. The milkshake tasted off and it was ~8oz.  Max is considered "expensive" for Swedish fast food.  But I can't say by much, considering BK has their 25kr ($3.86) menu so the burger of the day is one of 7 which aren't all "smalls" or "jr" burgers - but they aren't the Premium burger either.  If you want to make a meal of the burger of the day and sm fries sm drink then its 55kr ($8.50).

Ben and MC are 1 row behind the Free part of the FreeTour sign.
The guy's head is in Ben's stomach and MC is to Ben's right.
Im just above the free tour sign with the orange scarf, 2 rows
back just off Ben's left shoulder.
It started out as a Grand weekend.  MC had a school mate who is studying in Copenhagen come up to meet us for the weekend.  His name is pronounced like Boonwa, but Ive no idea how to spell it and he's french so beh!  When he was in Canada they called him Ben.  So, Ben, MC, Mel and I toured around Stockholm for an afternoon till Mel left for Germany.  Again, me exploiting the student rate, we went into the Museum in the Castle, the Royal Apartments, and the Royal Treasury (~70kr).  Not bad, but - eeh.  That evening was so much cooler.  We did a free walking tour of old Stockholm.  It was way way way interesting.  The guide did a great job being clear and understandable in her english.  it was a very large group too.  I totally recommend it.

The next day Ben, MC and I went to this lookout thing which you could walk up to the top or pay to ride up to the top...we walked.


We went back to Old town to watch the changing of the guards.  Which is always fun.  Byron, Bryan and I did that the last time we were in Stockholm in 2007.  It hasn't changed.

We then went to the Biological museum - A museum I actually feel pity for.  It was 40kr to get in if you were a student (90 if you weren't) and HOLY CRAP - it was just 2 floors but 1 large room that you walked a circle in and around the periphery is this glass window that just has stuffed taxidermy animals behind it.
Yet it is soooooooo old that most things are totally faded in color or were so poorly stuffed in the first place that the animal doesn't look real.  It would be fun to go in and quiz myself if I were learning birds again - but really???  The second floor was just so you could see the tops of the trees and look down on the other birds from above.

The Aquarium was just around the corner and we thought - yeah! live fishes...lets go check it out!  That was 90kr to get in no matter who you were - and it was worse than the Biological museum!!!!  OK, at least the stuff was alive, but the displays were so pitiful, and Ive never actually felt sorry for a fish till now.  At least the tanks looked clean....So, we took the ferry back to Old town, ate some Ice Cream (its 28F out or  -2C) and decided to head to Uppsala.

In Uppsala we meet another french person.  I can't remember her name. Its something like Mona? Monica? but trendy and rather English sounding, probably why I can't remember it.  Too normal for a french person.  She didn't seem to be too happy to see me.  She was the stereo-typical french person of all three, she was the worst.  We were staying at her place which was a shock to me.  (not that we were staying with her, but what her place looked like).  In Sweden housing is a HUGE problem.  Student housing is even worse.  So, they have dorms - which is what we were in, only they have anywhere from 5-15 rooms that all share 1 kitchen and 1 living room (you only have a living room if >10 rooms).  She was in a 5 room flat.  I think what threw me was they kept referring to an apartment.  This is not an apartment.  The kitchen is about 6ft wide and maybe 12ft long?  We could squeeze 4 of us around this tiny table and then there was space for the oven and sink.  That evening was an event at another students place (they had 15 rooms).  Tiny is all I can say.  The event is a completely different story not really worth telling except MC should have broken bones more than I with the times she fell trying to get home with a bike drunk in the dark.

Plaster casts of the 8 people they
dissected in the university
The autopsy theater
The next day after a LOoooooong slow morning we headed out into town.  We went to a really great Museum that I totally recommend in Uppsala.  Right across from the main church, on Saturdays and Sundays they do 1 free tour for English speaking people.  It was perfect timing.  So, got to see the history of Uppsala university, some viking stuff and some neat stuff about human Dissections back in the 1800s.  It was way interesting.  I want to go back - so someone has to come visit me so Ive an excuse!

After consuming BK we headed to the castle.  Id been there before, and Uppsala castle is no where as cool as Stockholm...and its not really open to the public.

 I ate dinner in the castle in 2007 for the conference banquet.  Well, wandering around Uppsala in the cold blowing air with lots of snow and ice ice ice made me very bored.  I just wanted to go somewhere - like Old Uppsala.  But MC wanted to go to Linnaeus's house...so we tried to find a way down from the castle.  Linnaeus for those of you who do not know is like the father of taxinomic nomenclature.  He basically gave us the system of latin names of Genis and Species like a grizzly bear is Ursus arctos or swift fox is  Vulpes velox.  Linnaeus was a botnist but dabbled everywhere in naming things.  Hes from Uppsala.  So, we were trying to find a faster path down the hill covered in icy snow.  We were walking so tentatively and carefully.  I then saw a break in the snow with a long patch of ground that was covered in long dead grass.  Remember it was a steep hill, when I hit this dry land I stepped too confidently and slid on the grass.  My shoes had no traction and the grass was icy and smooth.  I fell twisting and landing directly on my left leg.  I heard some popping noises that sounded like cartilage popping in rapid succession.

All I could think was - what do they do/say in the movies????  If you can put weight on it then its not broken right????  So, I stepped on it....and I didn't crumple directly in pain.  I could put some weight on it and not be in pain like they are in the movies....so it must be OK right?  Like what - I twisted my ankle right?  OK...so I half scooted, stumbled, and limped my way down the rest of the hill.  Getting to the bottom of the hill MC called her friend asking how far it was to her house from the castle (about 10 min walk)....There was no way I could do that.  For the first time in my life I didn't think about being a poor student and that I needed to toughen up and walk - I thought - Hey! I can get a bus....NO wait!!  I can afford a Taxi!!!  So, I walked about 200 m to the road - yes, whimpering the entire way.  At the road my heart sank cuz there were no cars.  I thought - shit, Im gonna have to walk back into town to catch a car/bus out of town...dang it!  I also recall thinking - Im so lucky to have a smart phone so I can look up taxi services in Uppsala on the internet.  My travel companions were completely lost and had no clue what to do.  Looking back it was rather funny at how they fell apart at knowing how to help someone.  Lucky for me, within about 3 minutes (seemed like 10) a taxi came by and MC waved it down.  Back at the 3rd floor apartment, I b-lined it for the room where I promptly put leg up on some pillows and blankets.  No one helped me, none of them checked in on me, none offered to help get water or food.  If I wanted/needed anything I had to get it myself.  So, they were all eating dinner when I hobbled out to the kitchen to find food.  I then hobbled back to the room without offering to clean up.  I decided it was bull that I was sticking around Uppsala in an atmosphere of unwelcomness and being injured and so I got online to re-book my train ticket for the next day to leave bright and early.  I called and booked a taxi pick up but was ready to go 1 hour before I originally intended. So, I called the taxi earlier and left the house to wait at the bus stop for my bus to Enkopping.  I then took 2 other trains to make it to Lindesberg by 12:00 on Sunday.

I know you are asking why didn't I go to the hospital in the big city of Uppsala....I really thought it was just a bad sprain, and didn't go to the hospital in Uppsala because I had hoped the swelling and pain would go down during the night.  When I awoke I just wanted out of there and to be back "home" and again maybe I just needed more time to heal and I had already purchased 2 tickets to travel back home, why purchase another?  While traveling, the pain didn't go down nor away and so I started thinking maybe I ripped a muscle or ligament.  So, I started googling it (again thankful for a smart phone).  It was 2 things that finally convinced me I should go to the hospital:

  1. the webMD.com site said how to diagnose a ligament tear - had one bullet point that said, "if you heard any popping during the accident you should get it checked out"...I heard popping.
  2. while my foot was propped up on a chair on the bus, this guy's bag just ever so gently grazed my foot sending shooting pains up my leg making me cry out and startle the other passengers.....so maybe it was worse than I thought. 


Getting between bus stop, train station, and 2nd train station and on and off these vehicles was a pain, but when I got to Lindesberg I was starving....sort of.  There was a Subway open on Easter Sunday 1 block away from the train station...so I walked there and got me a sub...then walked back to the train station to take a taxi to the hospital.  The taxi driver was quite confused as to my behavior cuz he could see me the entire trek across the lawn to subway and back again.

At the hospital they had me walking everywhere until they saw the x-rays....I don't know why these are upside down, but they are.

The fracture is up near my knee. 

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Waaaaay Back to December 2012

Bath House
I never did tell anyone what I did for my Chrisrmas vacation.   I went on a mission to find a hot spring.  according to a lovely travel App in my Ipad on touristic stuff in Sweden, it says that there is a hot spring in Umeå....Every person I mentioned to this to prior to my departure very politely without actually saying I was wrong, told me that this was something they did not think existed.  As a matter of fact, there are no hot springs anywhere in this country or the neighboring countries. Yet, the Swedish way of saying "No you crazy fool, there is no such thing" is to say - "wow, I didn't think there was a hot spring in Umeå"....Yeah - no hot springs.   This was the closest I got...
A nativity Scene or our Christmas Tree
At the time, it was such a very very very nice trip, even the lame ass train rides.  I was starving for interactions with something familiar, with food, people, company, friends - anything that wasn't Sweden.  For people who I could relate and lament with and for anyone to understand my sense of humor.  I needed to be around people who understood pop cultural references and where I didn't have to explain every part of the joke or memory.  I was so happy to leave this area even though I was heading farther north, farther into the darkness of winter.  It was way colder and really dark.  It had been a while since Ive experienced a Fairbanks winter.  This place was similar.

Sami hut
Paulina was such a wonderful host, making sure I saw parts of her city even though it was winter time and everything was closed.  Which reminds me.  Everyone takes the holidays off.  Meaning, if you expect places to be open while you are on Christmas vacation - the places you are going, those people are also likely on vacation too.
Down town
 Most of the activities that could be done or that were scheduled - they were all done/open up till Dec 23 and didn't resume till Jan 2.  But I got to see the Sami market place that is right behind her house (closed Dec 23), one of the museums, a sculpture park that is part of some campus outside of the city, and went skiing in and around her back yard.

I know Ive told lots of people this when they asked about how my Christmas break was, I will say it again.  The best word to describe it was Eclectic.  Christmas dinner was spent with 11 people and they were from all around the world, with the Russians out numbering the rest of us with 2 people from that 1 country.  Granted it is a big country so I suppose its allowed 2 representatives.  Natalia was from Moscow and Phillip from St. Petersberg.
Cool church
Most of the other people I do not remember their names or am too embarrassed to try to spell their names.  But there was 1 Armenian, 1 Argentinian, 1 Swed, 1 Canadian, 1 Ecuadorian, 1 Japanese, 1 Latvian  1 Mexican, 2 Russians and me.  Dinner was great because there were so many different dishes.  It was also great because we all had similar frustration stories of how we tried to cook a traditional dish from where we were from, but because we didn't recognize the ingredients or couldn't find the same things or somehow had to massage the recipe to fit the Swedish system...how the dish should really be.  (example of a lamentation)

I went to midnight mass with Paulina and Kenichi in this really cool looking church.  It was not as melodic as listening to mass in Latin, but it was still interesting to see the rituals done in this church and of course to not understand a word of it.

This was painted that morning and plowed
by the next morning.  Snow Graffiti 
We had a great time watching the fireworks from the hill behind Paulinas house.  It was so foggy out that you could barely see anything, but still, it was fun.  The hill overlooked a major portion of the city and you could sort of see fireworks from different sections of the city.  We ate the grapes at midnight 12 grapes in the last minute.  One grape per month = one wish to come true.  So far its been 2 months and neither of my first 2 wishes have come true!!  Silly tradition.

One of the strangest and coolest things in the bigger grocery stores in the bigger cities are these scanning machines.  You check out these little scanners and as you put items into your cart you scan it and it automatically creates your bill for you.  You can basically "check out" as you shop.
 It really is based on the honor system to a point.  They do randomly check various people so you could be stopped at any point.  But basically when you get to the check out counter, you go through a special line that all you have to do is swipe your card for payment and go.  Don't really have any photos at the moment.  Will have to remember to bring in my camera the next time Im in a big city.
Some silly signs:
This is a meeting place for people to hold hands?

I think outfart would be more releving

Wow, somebody loves Patrick!!!



Trip to Jokkmokk Part 4: Ice Hotel

The front door

North Star in the wall
The Ice Hotel was close to Jokkmokk and so I thought - hey, while Im there I might as well....Although it wasn't that easy.  I wasn't sure I wanted to go.  Paulina was TOTALLY enthralled with the place and kept saying how wonderful it is and how amazing and she was really selling it.  I looked at the photos and went on line - it sounded cool.  Buuuut each Swedish person I talked to, they didn't seemed too impressed.  Additionally Tuija also wasn't as eager to go either. It was 2.5 hour drive northe from Jokkmokk.  There were opportunities to take a day trip from the market up there (700kr for the ride there and back...oh yeah 700kr = about $100).  I didn't know what the market was going to be like and I didn't want to Cram it all in to the 3 days we had and I didn't want to miss the reindeer race and I was just unsure if I wanted to do it until Thursday evening, I decided that going on Saturday would be a good idea.
Church
The flower room
To be honest, I am very glad I did something else because there really was not much to do at the market that was free or that was in English that I had not already done...except see the parade which that only lasted 20 minutes.  Paulina and Kenichi made a special last minute trip from Umea just to join in for this trip to the Ice Hotel.  As we had a car it was easy transport and less complicated that if you were to take the train, bus taxi combo just to get there.  I guess the area is also interesting to visit because of the space station thing up there and a couple of other smaller sights but I can't recall....
Beam me up
Anyway, the hotel is interesting.  You can pay >$1,000 a night to stay in the "cheaper" rooms.  You do not bring any of your personal items into the rooms they are kept in lockers in the non-melty part of the hotel.  There isn't even a bathroom.  Literally, the room is walls and a platform with reindeer skins on them for bedding.  Some of the rooms have beautiful walls (those are more expensive).  There are about 20 or so rooms that are sculpted "specially".  You can submit an entry design/concept every year - you don't even have to know how to ice sculpt!  They have people hired to bring your creation to life.  Just send in a drawing or two as entries.  You can tell some of the artists really thought about the lighting and how that would all work with and without flash photography.  My favorite for this  being the room named "Beam Me Up".
Kenichi and Paulina in Dragon room
There was only one room that was really amazing in the detail - the "Dragon Room".  The bar was funny to enter - only because of the massive amounts of tourists who were in there drinking the drinks that were associated with their favorite room.  The most popular drink being the hot lingonberry and vodka drink (150kr).  The novelty of the drink is that the glass is ice.
hot lingonberry and vodka
I left my mark
You are probably waiting for it - the BUT in the story well here it is....I would likely never return.  This place was cool, but for someone who has seen the ice sculptures in Fairbanks this place was nothing compared to those.  There is so much potential and yet there are only 20 rooms that get carved and most of them aren't that detailed.  I don't know, there was just something about it that wasn't that impressive.  The kicker to it all is that it cost $50 to get in the door.  Thus one of the major reasons I would likely not return.  I am totally amazed that Paulina and Kenichi go back almost every year.  A place with an entrance fee like that either better have multiple roller coasters, free drinks, or somebody getting naked!  I realize on a good night out on the town I may drop $50 but thats for dinner, dancing and drinks.  The other drawback is that if you ended up at the same time as a tourist bus - holy crap! you'd never get a photo of the room or even into some of the rooms.  

Trip to Jokkmokk: Part 3 the rest of the Market

The market was not as big as I was expecting, yet it still seemed large.

Aaaw you want a hug???
Other things that I did at the market were to catch a concert that was amazing.  It was several groups who came together and played music with each other and by themselves.  I had no idea who they were, but the music they produced was very interesting.  Some folk songs, Finnish Tango, sami fiddle, and just good ol jam music.  The highlight was that I got to see Sofia Jannok.  She only performed 2 songs, but it was still increadiable.  As I do not have a lot of space on Blogger thing, I am posting my videos to the concert as links to youtube stuff.  So, if you want, click on the highlighted words to see some of the concert.
One of the other cool things at the concert was a performance by an Inuit from Greenland.  She started out the evening sitting on a stool applying her make-up and explaining (in Swedish) the significance of the performance she would be doing for us that night.  From what I could make out it is a dance that they would do during the winter to have a mental break from the darkness.  It was meant to have 3 themes but I could only get the gist of 2 - there was a sexual theme and a comedic theme, but again couldn't make out the last part.  Anyway - here's a link to a segment of her performance.  It was way cool and funny.
Tuija with a new friend

Badger, martin, ermine, roe deer fawn

Capercallie and ptarmigan
The market was filled with kinda same stuff that is seen at the winter markets and at the fall market I went to.  Lots of meat stalls, lots and lots and lots of knitted clothing (gloves, hats, socks etc).  But here there were also lots of stalls with skins and pelts and stuffed animals.
Sweets were not enticing when its -27C 
This guy sold me those 3 mugs
There were certain things that are traditional Sami "stuff" which I went shopping for.  One is a Kåsa (pronounced Kosa or koasa like coast).  this is typically made of birch and then you add in the reindeer bone for accent.  Another is the leukus which is a knife with wood (birch or sallow), reindeer antler/bone in the handle and a shieth made of reindeer hide.  When you buy a Kåsa the traditional exchange of goods and money is followed by sharing a shot with the seller.  You can of course buy these from a store where they look like they've been drilled by a machine, or you can buy them where they look hand made.  My guy made it seem like he made them himself...if he did I will never know.  However, mine at least looked hand made.  The bartering was entertaining and ended in a 100 kr discount and him pouring a shot of VERY VERY cold whisky into each mug I purchased.  I was not able to share either with my friends who were all laughing at me as I purchased 3 of these mugs and it was 1pm in the afternoon.

I am kicking myself now for not taking photos of the items for sale or of the people.  I was so enthralled with what people were wearing I forgot to photograph them.  Then, it just became so common place that you'd forget after that.  Maybe next year - or not.  Cuz it isn't likely I will go back.  On both days I was there I missed the parade which would have been the best opportunity as anyone in Sami dress would walk in it...I guess that is reason to return.  Otherwise, the best I can offer is I roomed with Norwegian Sami girls and they got ready every night for the Sami Dance.

Which leads me to my next bit.  I didn't go to the Sami Dance as I heard it was pretty much a disco that you had to pay 200kr to get in...instead I went to the Swedish Dance.  Which was free and really - it was way more my scene.  It was super fun.

The first night was empty, but the second night it overflowed into two different dance halls because there were some 9 fiddlers, 2 accordion players, 3 guitarists, 1 clarinet, 1 flute, and some ladies playing instruments Ive seen before but have no idea what its called.  It was basically a barn dance.  Only a barn dance that was inside some building next to a fire.






Paulina and Kenichi



Tuija is dancing with a wood carver I met at the market

Trip to Jokkmokk Part 2: The Race

I am extremely glad my mother taught me to plan ahead.  Ive gotten pretty lazy lately with the whole lack of planning and the - "we will see what happens when we get there".  In Sweden, this attitude doesn't seem to work as well for me.  Basically, last minute planning leads to lots of lame ducks...days.  Tuija and I learned this when we tried to get tickets to Sophia Jannok (click here for her music - trust me listen to it). There were 2 tickets left when we called and we decided to wait to see if more tickets would open up as suggested by the lady on the phone (because we were silly to think the rest of our travel group would want to join - HA! they didn't even make it to the market). Lucky for me I still got to see her, though not a full showing.  Sophia has taken the traditional Sami music style called Joik or Yoik and mixed it with modern music.  They have singing competitions every year, much like the Eurovision Song Contest, they have a Sami singing contest (click me).  It reminds me of Native American traditional chanting - which I find fascinating that something so similar is found on opposite ends of the earth.  I guess people are so predictable!

So, I had read on the web page that if you were interested in the Reindeer Race you needed to call a number.  I called and reserved my space in the contest which Im glad I did because they only took 8 people per day for the race.  I showed up early which was good cuz I got to be reminded of how small reindeer really are.

The funny part was I had no real image of what to expect and all instructions were in Swedish or Sami.  They took us over to the sleds and said something, indicated to some rope and the guy demonstrated sitting or laying down on the sled.  This I got from the gestures, but what was specifically said - no clue!

the race took about 45 seconds, but it seemed longer.  As you lay down (as all of us chose to do), you hold onto one rope that is attached to the deer and one rope that is lashed to the sled.  Then, its just hold on and don't roll off.



As you are laying there, if you lift your head, all you see are feet, snow, rocks, and more feet.  Or rather hooves.  I was laughing and trying desperately to yell, but laying on your belly with snow flying in your face stinging you and having icicle like daggers penetrate your eyes it makes it rather difficult to get enough lung power to yell....but yell I did...and laugh.  The guy next to me didn't even lift his head.  He kept his hood down and still won!  How lame is that!  It all had to do with placement.  Placement Placement Placement.  If you were on the outside of the track you would win.  

Just so you can get a picture of how you set up and it goes:







Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Jul Feast! Roast Beast! and Lutfisk!

So, Never really got around to posting this, but the traditional Christmas banquet or feast is hosted by the department every year.  It is a smorgasbord of food.  They recommended you eat the dinner in 7 courses.  Course 1 should be the "fish" and snaps.  So, there were over 20 types of herring.  I tried about 17 and liked 1.  Next course should be the salmon (with more snaps or now beer/wine).  Course 3 is the bear, roe deer, moose, wild boar etc. sausages.  Course 4 is the hot dishes Course 5 is potatoes, bread,  mustards and ham type meats. (more beer) Course 6 is the Dessert but thats different than Course 7 is also desert the cheese and other Christmas candies.  So, really its fish, meat, more meat, bread, hot dishes and uhhh chocolate!
Click here more photos

There is Lutfisk on my plate...thats the part with the peas on it. 
 
the lutfisk was not stinky, it was not good, it had no flavor, it was not as thought.  Lutefisk is made from dried whitefish (normally cod in Norway, but ling is also used) prepared with lye in a sequence of particular treatments. The watering steps of these treatments differ slightly for salted/dried whitefish because of its high salt content. The only flavor came with the sauce and spiced pepper they provided.  Not as cool as I thought.

ooh the moose was sooooo lovely!



Bear pate with herbs and smoked lam
This is smoked reindeer heart.  YUM!!!


pork and kantrell in konjak
Some pork stuff with different mustards